Mexiko - November / Dezember 2018

The limit at Tijuana is currently a big construction site. We are shown in the right lane. There are 3 cars in front of us, it goes relatively quickly until it's our turn. The lady speaks English and asks for the registration papers. She can't do anything with the international vehicle registration and wants to see the German papers. She is studying this “strange” certificate with 3 colleagues. Presumably, she gives it back to us no more knowledge than that. Where we want to go and whether we have insurance are the only questions it asks. We took out car insurance yesterday evening on the Internet at www.sanborns.com. It costs € 176 for 6 months.

We can move on to the next point - about scanning. Or. the motorhome is scanned. We wait outside behind a wall where we have been banished.

Park the car and walk back to the counter. We receive a tourist form which we have to fill out. Then we have to use it to go to the bank counter in the same building and pay about 23 € per person. You have to keep the receipt for this in a safe place so that you don't have to pay again when you leave the country.

Return to the first counter and present the tourist form, receipt and passport and you will receive a visa for 6 months. We ask for papers for our vehicle, but the officer says no. We do not need any further papers for the vehicle. We know it differently. We don't need papers for the Baja Californa, but later for the mainland. Then we have to get the "Casa Rodante" later in La Paz at the ferry.

We would like to have our USA residence permit “stamped out” from the passport so that the visa with a remaining validity of more than 3 months does not expire. To do this, we have to walk back to the US border. The officer asks what we want and we explain it to him. He answers in German and takes care of our concern.

We didn't have to queue for long anywhere and everything was done in 1 ¼ hour.

The roads here in the border area are very crowded and we want to go a little further south as soon as possible. It goes over Mex 1, along cliffs and small villages. We stop at a bank and get the first pesos from the machine.

I feel a bit queasy because I haven't practiced Spanish for 6 months. I try to translate the signs on the roadside and slowly I remember a word or two.

We go up

and there on a campsite. The place is pretty and very inexpensive. Here we nest for 2 days. The lady doesn't speak English so it has to work in Spanish now. It works. However, it was an easy exercise.

We linger the next day and face the test of courage to take a cold shower. Brrrr - we won't stay under for long.

We drive over the Mex 1 through mountains, then along the coast again. Again and again we meet military posts, but are usually waved through. We are only stopped once - probably out of curiosity. He asks a few questions and then waves us on.

In the supermarket we can look forward to the prices for the first time. Everything is considerably cheaper than in Canada and the USA, although Baja California is expensive by Mexican standards.

We're going to

to a campsite right by the sea. The fine sandy beach is long and clean.

A couple of Americans are here and a German-Canadian. 2 Americans from San Diego want to convince us to stay here tomorrow because a big event is taking place. It's about the "Baja 1000 Score Internacional". This is a 4 day off-road race that takes place in the desert of Baja California, Mexico. Traditionally starts in Ensenada and ends in the city of La Paz with a distance of just over 1,600 km. Every now and then the drivers meet the MEX1. There are street posts that regulate the traffic or paralyze it for so long.

The race may be worth watching, so we decide to stay here. There are always new times announced when the first vehicles will pass here. The last announcement is 4 p.m. We're going to the street where they should pass. At 5 p.m. there is no one to be seen. When it gets too dark, we drive back to the campsite. Even if they come now, all we can see is the headlights. Maybe… .. mañana

For this we took another long walk on the beach today and sat in the warm sun.

A typical village on the MEX1

Wir biegen auf die MEX12 ab und fahren zur 

an den Golf von Kalifornien. Auf einem Campingplatz stehen wir direkt am Wasser und vor unserer Nase tummeln sich Pelikane 

Über die MEX12 fahren wir zurück zur MEX1 und genießen noch einmal die schöne Kakteenlandschaft. Es geht weiter Richtung Süden. Wieder gelangen wir an einen Militärposten, der misstrauisch unseren Wagen anschaut, uns dann aber durchwinkt.

Zur Baja California Sur gibt es eine „Grenze“. Wir werden nach Früchten gefragt und nach Pflanzen. Er kontrolliert nicht, wir haben beides aber auch nicht dabei. Die Unterbodendesinfektion kostet 20 Peso (0,87€) und erreicht allenfalls unsere Reifen. 

Kurz darauf sind wir an unserem nächsten Ziel, die Ortschaft 

Hier steuern wir das Hotel Malarrimo an, das auch Stellplätze anbietet. Wir sehnen uns nach einer heißen Dusche und finden sie hier auch. 

In the Laguna Ojo de Liebre whales can be seen from December. It's only November, but maybe the whales don't have a calendar. We want to try our luck. But we didn't, because after a few kilometers on the road there is a closed gate. A gentleman is in a little house next to it and waves it away. We can't go through here.

So we turn around and drive back to the MEX1. At first the landscape is boring, but then turns into a pretty cactus desert. Countless bright yellow butterflies flutter around us.

Once again we are facing a military check. This time the soldier wants to inspect the inside of the motor home. He opens all doors and chests, as well as the case for our magnifying glass and the glasses case, etc. He doesn't find anything to complain about and we are allowed to continue.

We reach the town of San Ignacio and are surrounded by palm trees. By diversions in the village we are guided through narrow, winding streets until we reach the street

The idyll in the early morning is perfect. The fishing boats bob on the water, everything is peaceful and quiet. Only the fish stench is penetrating and unfortunately we carried the sand with our shoes into the car, which now smells just as well.

Along the bay it goes back to the slope.

erreichen wir Santa Rosalia, wo wir unsere Vorräte auffrischen können. Ansonsten ist der Ort uninteressant. Unser nächstes Ziel ist 

das am Golf von Kalifornien liegt. (Die MEX1 führt mal im Osten, mal im Westen über die Baja California.) Leider sind auch hier im Ort Straßenbauarbeiten, so dass wir nicht zum Leuchtturm kommen. Wir schlendern eine Weile durch den netten Ort, in dem überall die Blumenpracht leuchtet. 

Because of the streets that are torn up everywhere, it is not easy to get around on foot either and we continue on. On the way we see a campsite on the beach and spontaneously head for it. We look for a parking space and are surprised when it turns out that our neighbors are Brigitte and Edy, who we already met in Yellowstone Park. Of course there is a bit of chatting now.

The pitch is wonderful. We overlook a beautiful bay with a few boats.

We stay another day. The stench must be from the car. The doormat is washed off, the carpet rolled up and placed in the box on the car. Sweep and mop the floor and the odor nuisance is over.

We spend an entertaining, nice afternoon with Brigitte and Edy. Later, Hans joins them, who is out and about with his bimobile. Like us, he wants to go down to Tierra del Fuego.

It's time to say goodbye, everyone wants to go in different directions today. We go up Loreto to go shopping. From the MEX1 we can see dreamlike bays again and again, the water is sometimes azure blue, sometimes turquoise green.

You always have to be ready to brake ...

Wir erledigen die Einkäufe, tanken noch einmal voll und suchen den Campground im Ort. Er ist nicht schwer zu finden. Aber wir sind dann beide nicht davon angetan, irgendwo in der Stadt zu stehen, sind wir doch inzwischen verwöhnt und möchten eine schöne Bucht als Stellplatz. Die finden wir in der 

Bevor wir frühstücken bringen wir den Wagen in sicheres Terrain.

Mike sitzt mit einer Tasse Kaffee vor seinem Zelt und hat alles unter Beobachtung. Er hat den Abstand des Wassers zu unserem Wohnmobil im Auge behalten. 

Wir plaudern eine Weile und er fragt, ob im nächsten Örtchen ein Shop ist. Er braucht Wasser. Nun, da können wir mit ein paar Flaschen aushelfen.  

Mike geht angeln und wir fahren weiter auf der MEX1, die nun wieder von der Ost- auf die Westseite der Baja führt. Ein weites Stück hinter Ciudad Constitucion biegen wir auf eine 16km lange Piste ab und fahren durch eine schöne Kakteenwüste...

Unser Ziel für heute ist ein Campingplatz in 

Washing the laundry will be postponed for the time being. There is no water. The children all took a shower this morning and now there is no more water. Mexico stop. 😊 Someone is already on the way to take care of it. An hour later, water is running out of the crane again and we can do the laundry. The machines are more modern than those in Canada and the USA. But they don't wash clean either.

Reinhard has a toothache. Oh dear! We speak to Michael, a Dutchman who lives and works here. He's been spending a few days here at the campsite. He actually knows a dentist and offers to call her tomorrow morning (today is Sunday).

The day goes by doing laundry, repair work, tidying up, etc.

We are extending our stay at the campsite by one day because, thanks to Michael, we got an appointment with a dentist for lunch today. So we have plenty of time and today we will get the Casa Rodante, the permit for the mainland. The ferry port where you can get it is about 30km away. GPS N24.2772 W110.329.

We call in at the counter and are presented with a list of what to bring. Passport, visa (residence permit), vehicle registration document, both original and copy. Copies can be made next door. Cost: 4 pesos (€ 0.17). Back to the counter and present everything. A lengthy procedure now begins because everything is entered into the computer. The lady asks where the vehicle number is and we show it to her. After everything is done and paid for, it turns out she wanted to know the chassis number. We gave her the number of the license plate. So everything at the beginning. The whole thing takes a full hour and costs 1330 Peso (53 €).

Now the time for the dentist appointment is running out, but it should be enough. We sped off to be suddenly stopped at a construction site. It doesn't go any further here. Looking for another way - we finally reach the street. We are a little late. But what's up with the house numbers? They start at over 3000 and keep getting higher. The navigation system can no longer help us, it does not accept the Mexican house numbers. Different program - we find the house on the map, it is over 3km away. In addition, part of the street is a one-way street that we have to bypass.

We reach our destination with a delay of 20 minutes. How embarrassing!

We apologize extensively and Reinhard is allowed on the dentist's chair. The tooth wobbles and has to get out. But the dentist has another appointment now and we have to come back tomorrow for that. Well, then we'll stay at the beautiful campsite for a day longer.

Our neighboring parking space has since been taken. We know the mobile home! It's Steven traveling in a right-hand drive Mitsubishi. We met Steven in Guerero Negro.

The day goes by with some errands. We need cash, which disappears very quickly here, as some petrol stations and campsites have to pay in cash. So we go to a bank first.

In addition, the motorhome urgently needs to be washed. You don't do that yourself here, but are done by hand by hardworking people on the “car wash”. One of them climbs on the roof and cleans it. They're very inventive in getting to hard-to-reach places. After 1 hour of work by 2 people, the car is sparkling clean.

Since we still have a smelly rug in the outside storage space, I ask if they can clean it too. Sure, but without a guarantee if the carpet can't handle it. He can take it and we have a carpet that hasn't been this clean in a long time.

The promenade of La Paz looked inviting yesterday as we drove past, which is why we visit it today.

Reinhard's appointment with the dentist is at 6 p.m. We leave late and arrive late. We don't need to sit in the waiting room for too long, then things get down to business. That means: pulling towards the tooth. That too is quick, but the doctor still cleans the area around the extracted tooth very thoroughly, as it has become infected. She prescribes an antibiotic and pain pills. We should redeem the recipe in a farmacia. Farmacias can be found everywhere, even in the big supermarkets. So we make a detour to Walmart and get the medication.

The practice was sparkling clean and all the equipment was top notch. The doctor and the staff were very friendly.

Reinhard is fine, he didn't need any pain pills.

The great shower on the campsite is used one last time, another shop is made, then it goes to MEX19

Zurück auf der Mex19 gibt es Abschnittweise prima Aussicht auf den Pazifik. Und da sehe ich sie. Zunächst nur Fontänen, dann zeigen die Giganten ihre Rücken. Wale – und keine Möglichkeit, irgendwo anzuhalten. 

Die Stadt ist quirlig und sehr touristisch. 

There are numerous yachts in the harbor, the shops offer expensive jewelry or souvenirs, the hotels look luxurious.

We drive up to Mex1 San Rose del Cabo and shortly afterwards turn onto the coastal road. First it goes on asphalt, then on the slopes. Several beautiful bays offer themselves to stay here. We choose one of them and “pitch our tents”.

Lonely bay? Not even close. Lots of visitors come by. First an angler who wants to catch his dinner here. 7 pelicans pass, then 12 and then another 2 stragglers. You have a big family gathering today.

2 stray dogs visit us. They don't make a sound, but beg for food with honest looks and nudges. I go through our supplies in my mind. I have no idea what dogs are allowed to eat, but I rule out chocolate chip cookies or salted cookies. None of our canned foods are suitable. I might rather feed a cat a can of tuna. As sorry as we are, we cannot offer anything. The two move away again. There are 5 riderless horses. However, you turn 100m in front of us. Then calm returns.

Night is coming In the water the distant fishing boats form a chain of lights and countless stars sparkle above us.

At 15 km / h in places, we rumble north over the dusty track. So you have enough leisure to enjoy the wonderful views over and over again.

We originally wanted to go to the campsite, but change our minds and go to the beach. We enjoy sweet idleness with a coffee.

Durch hübsche kleine Ortschaften und asphaltierter Straße geht es zurück auf die MEX1. In La Paz steuern wir das Office von TMC-Ferris an, um die Überfahrt zum Festland zu buchen. Angeblich hat das Büro täglich von 8.00 Uhr bis 16.00 Uhr geöffnet. Es ist geschlossen. Uns bleibt nichts anderes übrig, als erneut zum Hafen zu fahren und dort zu buchen. Das Büro ist ebenfalls geschlossen. Wir werden zu einem anderen Gebäude geschickt – auch geschlossen. Das Büro der Baja-Ferris hingegen ist geöffnet. Wir würden die andere Linie vorziehen, weil wir dort im Wagen schlafen können und keine Kabine buchen müssen. 

Uns wird gesagt, dass das Büro morgen wieder geöffnet hat.

Reinhards Schuhe haben ihre Schuldigkeit getan und es müssen ein paar neue heran. Wir finden jedoch nichts Vernünftiges. Inzwischen ist es später Nachmittag und wir haben keine Lust mehr zu suchen. Also steuern wir erneut den Campingplatz an.

Heute ist Samstag und eine große Gruppe Pfadfinder hat ihre Zelte aufgeschlagen. Das wird diesmal nicht so ruhig sein, wie letzte Woche. :-)

Auf dem Campingplatz steht ein Expeditionsmobil. Es gehört Axel und Marion aus der Schweiz. Wir tauschen ein paar Erfahrungen aus.

Eine Fähr-Buchung über das Internet ist nicht möglich. Es gibt zwar eine Seite von TMC-Ferris, die jedoch nicht funktioniert. Dass das Büro in der Stadt nicht sehr viel taugt haben wir inzwischen herausgefunden. Wir fahren also erneut zum Hafen. Und diesmal haben wir doppeltes Glück: Das Büro ist geöffnet und ein Mitarbeiter spricht englisch und so ist alles ganz leicht. Buchen können wir zwar nicht, aber reservieren. Wir reservieren gleich für morgen. Um 13.00 Uhr sollen wir hier sein. Erst zum Zoll, dann wird das Wohnmobil gemessen und gewogen und anschließend erhalten wir die Tickets. Um 17.00 Uhr ist Abfahrt.

Da wir auf der Fähre im Wohnmobil schlafen können (auf dem Oberdeck) wählen wir die längere Überfahrt nach Mazatlan. Das erspart uns viel Fahrerei auf einem uninteressanten Stück Festland. 

Auf dem Rückweg durch La Paz sehen wir einen großen Weihnachtsbaum. Von wem dieser gesponsert wurde ist unschwer zu erkennen.

The boy scouts pack their things and gradually leave.

Marion and Alex place their Steyr next to our mobile home and we sit down to chat.

Unfortunately, our farewell to Baja California has a very bitter aftertaste. But one after anonther.

We exchange the contact details with Marion and Alex and say goodbye. Since we have until noon, we shower, fill up the water tank, etc. In La Paz we go shopping again. We don't get everything in the first supermarket and drive to another one. Then we stop again at the promenade and stretch our feet.

Now it is time to drive to the port and first have to go through customs, which goes smoothly. Now we are supposed to measure and weigh. The Lord saves measuring himself and instead asks about the length. Since our motorhome is less than 6m long, the trip is definitely cheaper. The motorhome is parked on the side and we buy our tickets. (219.15) Believe it or not, it takes an hour for the tickets to be printed.

Back in the motorhome, we discover with horror that our two laptops have disappeared. Nothing is broken or damaged. We'll call the police who have a station here in the port area. The policeman is also quickly on the spot. He says the site is under video surveillance and we can watch the video. But the chief of police must come to this, he shouldn't do it himself.

We wait and wait. At 4 p.m. we get restless because the ferry is supposed to leave at 5 p.m. At that moment the chief of police arrives. He speaks English and is very friendly. We watch the video but find no clue. Twice a truck stood between the camera and our car, but it is unlikely that anything happened during that time. We are also still concerned with how the thief got into the car. Ultimately, we suspect that it happened on the promenade. There are many tourists there, which is likely to attract one or the other crook. The windows are still locked and also too high to climb in. So he must have come through the door. Our motorhome has 3 doors with 2 locks each. Reinhard locks all the doors on both locks every time we leave the car. The trouble is that each lock has a different locking direction and we suspect that it unlocked there instead of. A thief who checked doors in passing had an easy time here. The laptops were open in the motorhome for charging. It will have been an act of the second, because no cabinet door was opened or anything searched.

We had external hard drives with us and always thought that the photos should also be backed up ..... Now all photos of the entire trip are gone. It's good that we have the most important ones on the website.

We thank the chief of police who apologized to us. He can't help it. But he says it happened in his country and he apologizes for that.

We have to get to the ferry and manage to get to the upper deck. However, we are shipped in the front area, which is covered and enclosed on three sides so that no breeze gets into the car. The ferry leaves at 7:00 p.m. with a 2 hour delay.

There are almost only truckers on board. One of them makes us understand that there is dinner. In the common room we stand around indecisively. The truckers tell us to sit down and wait a moment. Our food will be brought there. Rice, beans and beef. Tortillas and chili sauce are on the table and there is also a delicious drink that we don't know what it is. The meal is included in the fare, a container for propina (tip) is on the table.

We withdraw. Reinhard is much more relaxed than me. I was pretty bummed by the incident.

continue with Mexico II